Travellers' Joy and Sailors Ahoy!

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'Sweet lovers', Shakespeare tells us, 'love the spring'. But who doesn't? The lengthening daylight, the climbing temperature, the unfurling leaf, the intensifying colour, the gambolling lamb - all lift the mood. Spending time in 'green space' (a garden, a park, a landscape) is proven to do the same, but being in 'blue space' (a lake, a river, a seascape) more so. On this coastal, hence linear, walk, blue and green space meet: the flat, fertile fields ease into the reedbeds, saltmarshes, creeks and salterns of Chichester Harbour AONB. And, if the exhilarating landscape and seascape aren't enough, the villages we'll see (and eat in at a pub called the Travellers' Joy) are among the loveliest in Sussex.

The sights:

Chichester Harbour AONB: 'Chichester Harbour is one of the few remaining undeveloped coastal areas in Southern England...Its wide expanses and intricate creeks are at the same time a major wildlife haven and among some of Britain's most popular boating waters. The massive stretch of tidal flats and saltings are of outstanding ecological significance.' (From Wikipedia). At this time of year, birdlife should crescendo before some species such as Brent Geese depart for northern latitudes. 

Langstone: The old port for Havant. At the head of the creek separating Chichester and Langstone Harbours. Causeway created 1823, superseded by a timber road bridge (rebuilt in concrete in 1956). Stumps of old railway bridge, 1867, adjacent. Handsome quay walls with C18 cottages of flint, brick and thatch. Former tower windmill, mid-C18, converted 1932-6.

Warblington: Cemetery, lanes, church and castle. The Church of St Thomas, oldest in the area, is late C12. The tall octagonal turret is a remnant of Warblington Castle, built in 1340. Razed by the Parliamentarians in 1643 with the tower left as a navigation point. Warblington Castle was the chief residence of Margaret Plantagenet (Pole), Countess of Salisbury (1473-1541), the only surviving daughter of George Plantagenet, Duke of Clarence, brother of Kings Edward IV and Richard III. Her ancestry and allegiance to Princess Mary and the Pope led to her being imprisoned on charges of treason by Henry VIII, until she was executed on a whim. Notoriously brutally hacked at by an inexperienced young executioner, she was beatified as martyr in 1886. 

Emsworth: In the SE corner of Hampshire on the shore of Chichester Harbour. An attractive maritime town. Once a medieval port for wine and other goods, it now has a basin for yachts and fishing boats, which fills at high tide and can be emptied through a sluice at low tide. 

Prinsted: A suburb of Southbourne, or perhaps the other way round because the bigger place came later. A very pleasant surprise: a Y-shape of lanes with justifiably some of the prettiest cottages on the south coast.

Chidham: 'A cul de sac...on a tongue of land with an inlet of Chichester Harbour on either side of it. Completely unspoilt. One of the nicest of the West Sussex coastal villages: completely wayward too - no formal group, just barns, cottages and bell-gable of the church' (Ian Nairn). The Manor House has a plain C18 front. St Mary's Church is all C13, simple and affecting. Middleton House is handsome, 1759. 

Bosham: 'Deservedly, the best-known village around Chichester Harbour: a close-packed huddle of cottages at the waterside, as intricate as a Cornish village, but built to a softer Sussex colour scheme' (Ian Nairn). Holy Trinity Church is Saxon, but most is C12 and C13. A daughter of King Cnut is buried in the church, and Harold Godwinson prayed there before setting sail to offer allegiance to Duke William of Normandy in 1064 and thus it features on the Bayeux Tapestry as BOSHAM: ECCLESIA. Brook House is 1743, grade II-listed.

Fishbourne: Nice enough, but battered by traffic on the A259. Mill Lane, leading to Fishbourne Creek of Chichester Harbour, is very pleasant with its thatched cottages and millpond.

Dogs:

I love having dogs on my walks and this walk is very suitable for them with few stiles, busy roads and fields with livestock. Plus, they can splash in the sea and get coated in stinky harbour mud! At some points, the Harbour Conservancy Council insist upon dogs going on leads to protect shore-nesting and feeding birds. Any dog off the lead must be under control.

The route (click the link to see it):

We'll follow the Hayling Billy trail to Langstone, then follow the coastal path (the Solent Way) to Warblington and Emsworth. At Emsworth we'll wander through the town and boatyards and pick up footpaths heading east to Prinsted. The coastal path will take as to Chidham and we'll cross the peninsula and take lanes back to the waterside. Well then go round Bosham Channel to walk through Bosham, then take footpaths heading further east to Fishbourne. At Fishbourne Mill we'll turn inland and head to the bus stop.

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(Photo credits: On Chichester Harbour. At low tide a causeway opens up across the inlet: Photo © diamond geezer (cc-by-nc-nd/2.0); Bosham: Photo © diamond geezer (cc-by-nc-nd/2.0); South end of the Millpond: Photo © Des Blenkinsopp (cc-by-sa/2.0); Still heading for the sea: Photo © Des Blenkinsopp (cc-by-sa/2.0); Queen Street, Emsworth, Hampshire: Photo © Jeff Gogarty (cc-by-sa/2.0); A fine view at Prinsted: Photo © Basher Eyre (cc-by-sa/2.0); Looking north-eastwards up Prinsted Lane: Photo © Basher Eyre (cc-by-sa/2.0); Bench overlooking Bosham Channel: Photo © Des Blenkinsopp (cc-by-sa/2.0); Houses in Chidham Lane: Photo © Basher Eyre (cc-by-sa/2.0); All images are copyrighted but are here credited to their copyright holders and are licensed for reuse under either Creative Commons CC-BY-SA/2.0 or Creative Commons CC-BY-NC-ND/2.0.)