Descent into the Devil's Punch Bowl
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The Devil's Punch Bowl is a vast 700-acre natural amphitheatre and Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) east of Hindhead in the far south-west corner of Surrey. In the care of the National Trust since 1906, the Punch Bowl is a deep geological depression caused by spring water erosion of the mudstone layer under the sandstone surface.
This reasonably challenging 9-mile circular walk starting at Haslemere Station takes us up to the southern edge of the Bowl and then down through its wooded interior and back up again to the high point at Gibbet Hill, the second-highest point in Surrey at 892 feet (272m)
The sights:
Haslemere: This town & civil parish of 17,000 people lies some 38 miles (62km) south-west of London close to the source of the River Wey (South). It does not appear in the Domesday Book, but rather seems to have originated in the late 12th century as a medieval 'planned town'. The London to Portsmouth railway reached Haslemere in 1859, sparking growth in the town, and it became a centre of the Arts & Crafts movement at the end of the 19th century.
The Devil's Punch Bowl: This spectacular natural feature comprises a 300-foot deep, half-mile wide, depression in the land, surrounded by a rim rising to between 800 & 900 feet. All sorts of legends surround the origin of its name, which has been in use since at least 1768, and it has featured in the writings of Charles Dickens, C.S. Forrester and Agatha Christie among others. It became one of the National Trust's earliest acquisitions in 1906 and an SSSI in 1955 on account of its distinctive flora & fauna, including 60 breeding species of birds (see designation here).
The peace & quiet of the place was spoilt for many years by the main A3 London to Portsmouth road running around the rim of the Bowl, which in turn created a bottleneck on this major route. The problem was solved by the opening in July 2011 of a £371 million dual-carriageway tunnel under Gibbet Hill, since when the natural contours of the land have been restored.
The Sailor's Stone & Celtic Cross: On 24th September 1786, an unknown sailor was murdered by three other sailors beside the old London to Portsmouth coaching road. The assailants were soon caught and hung on Gibbet Hill in April 1787. The Sailor's Stone was erected soon after the murder by the side of the road to commemorate the unfortunate victim. In 1851, a Celtic Cross was constructed on the site of the gibbet by a prominent judge in order to dispel the fears of local people.
Gibbet Hill: At 892 feet (272m), this is the second-highest point in Surrey after Leith Hill, and commands panoramic views, especially to the north & east. On a clear day, prominent London landmarks such as Wembley Stadium may be seen. In the 18th century, the area had a poor reputation due to the activities of highwaymen and robbers.
During WWII and into the 1950's, Gibbet Hill was the site of an RAF ground radar navigational air station, consisting of four 240-feet masts sending pulses to aircraft to assist navigation (see link here). Tragically, on 6th May 1945, a USAAF aircraft flew into one of the poorly-lit masts in bad visibility and crashed on the hill with a total of 31 fatalities.
Temple of the Four Winds: The stone base is all that survives of a fine hunting lodge constructed in 1910 by Viscount Pirrie, chairman of Titanic shipbuilders Harland & Wolff. With its magnificent views to the north, it was used for grand luncheon parties for Lord Pirrie's friends & guests. It fell into disrepair after WWII and was demolished in 1966, but the National Trust subsequently excavated & restored the foundations.
The route (please click the link in red to see it):
From Haslemere station, we will leave the town via Weydown Road, Stoatley Hollow and Farnham Road to reach Hindhead Common and the National Trust visitor centre at the south-west corner of the Punch Bowl. After admiring the fine view from this point, we will descend steeply into the interior of the depression and walk north to Highcomb Farm and through Highcomb Bottom to reach the far point of the National Trust area at Vanhurst Copse. From here, we turn south and climb steadily up the eastern side of the Bowl, pausing at an open area near the top of the rim for a short lunch stop.
After the break, we complete the climb to reach the top of Gibbet Hill and the best views of the area.
We will then walk east through thick woodland to reach the Temple of the Four Winds, before turning south towards Haslemere, re-entering the town via Bunch Lane, Inval Hill, High Lane & Tanners Lane.
Dogs
Well-behaved dogs are welcome on this walk, and this is suitable for them, with few obstacles to negotiate. However, where we encounter grazing livestock or need to cross or walk along roads, dogs must be on a lead.
At all other times, a dog off the lead must be obedient.
Please note that only assistance dogs are allowed inside the National Trust café at the Visitor Centre.
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Photos: View from NE rim (header) / View from NT visitor centre / Haslemere station entrance / Station parking details / National Trust visitor centre & cafe / View from S rim / Inside the Punch bowl / Footbridge Highcomb Bottom / View from NE rim / View from SE rim / The Sailor's Stone / The Celtic Cross / Trig point, Gibbet Hill / Woodland path E of Gibbet Hill / Temple of the Four Winds.
All photos taken by the leader 6th October 2024 and permission given to OutdoorLads for use.
What to bring
Walking boots and thick socks are essential to cope with the uneven, rough paths we will be using. Bring or wear clothes suited to the weather, including a waterproof jacket.
You should expect parts of the route to be muddy & wet after all the rain recently, so gaiters are recommended as well.
Please don't wear trainers or ordinary shoes - they won't stand up to the conditions and will be ruined. I would also advise against wearing jeans as these will become heavy & cold if they get wet.
Also bring something to sit on while you have your packed lunch.
Food & drink
Please bring a packed lunch and plenty of water to keep hydrated. There are cafes both within Haslemere Station (Puccinos) and just outside (The Cabin) where you can get some supplies, and we can also stop briefly at the National Trust cafe at the Devil's Punch Bowl (although it's not the quickest of service in there!). There are toilets at the station and the NT visitor centre.
We will have our lunch break at an open area on the eastern side of the rim with fine views across the Bowl.
At the end of the walk, there are pubs in Haslemere if anyone wishes to stop for a drink afterwards.