All-New Dorset Double, Day 2: Lyme Regis to Golden Cap

Introduction:

Last year it was an Isle of Wight Double. This year it's an all-new Dorset (plus a bit of Devon) Double, taking place on the Saturday and Sunday of the late-May Bank Holiday weekend. Campsites and B&Bs might be a little hard to find later on and expensive as the late May Bank Holiday weekend is at the start of the half-term holiday, so you are advised to book right now. Demand for the Double Event may be reduced as Big Spring Camp will be running at the same time, but even so, I hope you can come and experience a double-bill of outstanding coastal walks on the Jurassic Coast, centred on Lyme Regis, the 'Pearl of Dorset', a place equipped with an array of B&Bs and campsites.

Schedule:

• Day 1 (Saturday 24 May): Seaton and Beer to Lyme Regis and Charmouth - linear walk with bus from Lyme Regis/Charmouth to the starting point at Seaton.
• Day 2 (Sunday 25 May): Lyme Regis and Charmouth to Whitchurch Canonicorum, Ryall and Golden Cap - circular walk. 

Public transport to Lyme Regis and Charmouth:

Rail: The nearest railway station is Axminster, which is served by hourly direct services from London Waterloo on a journey lasting 2 hours, 42 minutes. 

Local buses: Buses from Axminster Railway Station to Lyme Regis and Charmouth depart at 15 minutes past the hour (except at 16.25 and 17.20). The last service is 18.15, but they could run later in peak season. They take 25-30 minutes to get to Lyme Regis and Charmouth respectively and go near the campsites. I will confirm these details closer to the event.

Accommodation:

Book for at least Friday 23 May to Sunday 25 May (3 nights). The following day is Bank Holiday Monday. You are advised to book now if you can.  (By way of a disclaimer, I don't know what any of these sites are like; they're just in the vicinity.)

• Campsites: Choose one near Charmouth, such as Cummins Farm. There is also Manor Farm which does caravans and chalets too. If you want to stay in Uplyme (which is outside of Lyme Regis, and is a little far out of town), try Hook Farm. I reckon Cummins Farm is best for traditional, basic camping.
• Caravans, glampers and pods sites: Newlands Farm and Wood Farm. These sites are both in Charmouth, have extensive facilities, but are family-oriented.
• B&Bs: Choose one in, or within a mile of, Lyme Regis or Charmouth. Search Booking.com here. 

Day 2 - Lyme Regis to Golden Cap:

This is a circular walk that spends a little more time inland before returning to the majesty of the coastline. Those staying in Lyme Regis will get extra distance to cover, but with the benefit of a walk along the shore where abundant fossils may be found. There will be three main ascents: the first is Hardown Hill, which is an Iron Age hillfort; the second is Golden Cap, which is the highest point on the south coast at 191 metres; the third is merely a hill outside Charmouth. All three points will offer magnificent views over land and over sea. In addition, there will be some lovely little villages such as Whitchurch Canonicorum, whose church contains the only intact saints’ reliquary in England.

Day 2 - the sights:

Charmouth: A picturesque coastal village known for its stunning Jurassic Coast scenery and rich fossil-hunting opportunities. Its origins go back to Roman times. During the Saxon period, it was known as 'Cernmunde' and the village witnessed fierce Viking battles in the C9. It grew into a small medieval market town, benefiting from its location on ancient trade routes. Its cliffs, part of the UNESCO Jurassic Coast, are famous for fossils, attracting naturalists since the C19. It is now suburbanised but retains its charm.

Whitchurch Canonicorum: A picturesque village in Marshwood Vale, renowned for its historic church, St. Candida and Holy Cross, which contains the only church shrine in Britain to have survived the Reformation with its relics intact, those of St Candida (St Wite), a Christian martyred by the Danes, or alternatively a West Saxon anchoress (a female religious recluse). (Westminster Abbey also contains a saint's relics, those of Edward the Confessor.)

Ryall: A pleasant hamlet nestled in Marshwood Vale. Surrounded by rolling hills and lush countryside, it offers superb views. Known for its close-knit community and rural charm.

Hardown Hill and Hillfort: Its prominence of over 150m qualifies it as one of Dorset's four Marilyns and it is listed as one of the 'top 12 Dorset views to take your breath away' by Dorset's official tourist website, with expansive views over the Marshwood Vale. The hillfort (Iron Age, spanning approximately 800 BCE to 43 CE) features earthen ramparts and ditches, though much is eroded.

Golden Cap: The highest point on the southern coast of England, rising 191 meters (627 feet). Composed of sedimentary rocks, primarily sandstone, limestone and shale, it forms part of the cliffs that showcase the region's rich geological history. Part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its geological importance. The site provides stunning panoramic views, and its distinctive golden-hued cliffs are a popular destination for hikers, geologists, and nature enthusiasts alike.

Fossil hunting: The area is renowned for its abundance of fossils (exposed as we'll be passing at low tide) due to its unique geology and ongoing coastal erosion. Key reasons include: 

1. Jurassic Period Rocks: The cliffs around Charmouth are composed of sedimentary rocks, primarily shale and limestone, formed around 200 million years ago during the Jurassic period. These rocks preserve a wide range of marine life from this era.
2. Continual Erosion: Natural erosion caused by waves, wind, and rain constantly exposes new fossil layers, making fossils accessible on the beach.
3. Variety of Fossils: The area was a marine environment during the Jurassic, so it contains numerous fossils of ammonites, belemnites, ichthyosaurs, and other ancient marine creatures.
4. Soft Mudstones: The clay-rich Blue Lias and Charmouth Mudstone formations are relatively soft, allowing fossils to be easily revealed and extracted without extensive excavation.

Day 2 - the route (click the link in red to see it at the Ordnance Survey site): 

Those staying in Lyme Regis will start at The Square and walk along the coast to Charmouth (the tide will be low). We'll ascend Lower Sea Lane and pick up the guys staying in Charmouth. We'll then head east along The Street and Berne Lane and cross the A35, continuing on Berne Lane as far as Whitchurch Canonicorum, where we'll follow Lower Street, then Higher Street to Ryall. We'll then make our first ascent: up Hardown Hillfort. We'll then take footpaths to the A35 and over Muddyford Lane to ascend Golden Cap. The South West Coast Path (SWCP) will return us to Charmouth, and those staying in Lyme Regis can continue back on foot (along the shore or using the SWCP) or by bus. Be assured that I will be reconnoitering this route to check that it works!

Dogs:

I love having dogs on my walks and this one may be suitable for dogs with lots of stamina. It is long, has some fields with livestock and will partly be along lanes. Some of the route is exposed to the sun so a dog may overheat, but some of it is under trees so will be cooler. Your dog must be responsive if it is off the lead. 

IMPORTANT! – Participation Statement:

You MUST complete a Participation Statement, in addition to booking your event space before attending an OutdoorLads event. You only need to complete this Participation Statement once, not for each event you attend.

(Images: The Cobb, Lyme Regis: Photo © Malc McDonald (cc-by-sa/2.0); Lyme Bay: Photo © Marika Reinholds (cc-by-sa/2.0); Lyme Regis Harbour: Photo © Paul Allison (cc-by-sa/2.0). (Images: The Cobb, Lyme Regis: Photo © Malc McDonald (cc-by-sa/2.0); Lyme Bay: Photo © Marika Reinholds (cc-by-sa/2.0); Lyme Regis Harbour: Photo © Paul Allison (cc-by-sa/2.0); Statue of Mary Anning, Lyme Regis: Photo © Malc McDonald (cc-by-sa/2.0); Church of St Michael the Archangel, Lyme Regis: Photo © Roger Cornfoot (cc-by-sa/2.0). West Dorset Coastal Scenery: Photo © Lewis Clarke (cc-by-sa/2.0). St Candida & Holy Cross, Whitchurch Canonicorum: churchyard: Photo © Basher Eyre (cc-by-sa/2.0); View over Filcombe Wood: Photo © Nigel Mykura (cc-by-sa/2.0); Golden Cap: Photo © David Brown (cc-by-sa/2.0); West Dorset Countryside Scenery: Photo © Lewis Clarke (cc-by-sa/2.0). All images are copyrighted but are licensed for reuse under Creative Commons CC-BY-SA 2.0 and are here attributed to their copyright holders.)